DAY BY DAY ACCOUNT OF KAILAS MANSAROVAR YATRA

15 JULY 2010

FLT. TO KATMANDU 8.15 AM FROM MUMBAI LEFT IN TIME, LANDED IN NEPAL IN TIME. PICKED UP FROM AIRPORT BY SHRESHTHA PEOPLE AND TAKEN TO HOTEL CROWN PLAZA, SOALTEE, A FIVE STAR EST. AFTER ROOM ALLOTMENT, HAD BUFFET LUNCH, INDIAN FOOD. THOUGH TWO PEOPLE WERE LOCATED IN EACH ROOM, SINCE THERE WAS NO ONE LEFT, I GOT A ROOM FOR MYSELF. NO SIGHT SEEING FOR THE DAY, WENT TO MARKET AREA FOR MINOR PURCHASES, WITH RATAN SRIVASTAVA, A BUSINESS MAN FROM MUMBAI, WESTERN SUBURBS.

16 JULY 2010.

WENT FOR MORNING WALK AS USUAL. HAD BREAKFAST, AS PER CHOICE, NO OF ITEMS ON THE BUFFET TABLE, UPMA, SAMBAR, CORNFLAKES ETC. THE GROUP LEFT FOR PASUPATINATH, AND SHAKTIPEETH AT 9.30 A.M. PURCHASED CORALS, AND RUDRAKSHA STRINGS. RETURNED TO HOTEL FRO LUNCH, AND AGAIN NO OTHER OUTING. EVENING WAS LEFT TO US. PHONED INDIA AT RS. 3 N.C. AFTER DINNER WENT TO BED EARLY, SINCE MORNING WERE SUPPOSED TO LEAVE HOTEL BY 5 A.M

17 JULY 2010

THE GROUP LEFT THE HOTEL AT AROUND 7 A.M. WE WERE 35 IN THE GROUP, 10 COUPLE, AND OTHER SINGLES, MEN 11, AND LADIES 4. LIGHT BREAKFAST PROVIDED ON THE WAY, AND BY AFTERNOON WE REACHED LOCATION NEAR BORDER, WERE TAKEN TO A HOTEL WHERE WE WERE GIVEN LUNCH. OUR PASSPORTS WERE TAKEN EARLIER FOR GETTING IT STAMPED AT NEPAL BORDER. WE CROSSED OVER TO CHINESE SIDE FOR IMMIGRATION AND CUSTOMS CHECK, TOOK SOMETIME. AFTER CHECK WE ENTERED CHINA, ZHANGMU AND WERE ALLOTTED ONE LAND CRUISER FOR FOUR, AND WERE ON OUR WAY INTO TIBET. I HAD FOR COMPANY IN THE CRUISER, SHRI. SHEMBEKAR, PHATAK, AND SRIVASTAVA. WE WERE TOGETHER TILL THE LAST DAY, 28 JULY 2010. LEFT FOR NYALAM IN A CONVOY OF 9 CRUISERS, 150 KMS. FROM BORDER. ONE TRUCK CARRIED OUR COOKING MATERIAL ALONG WITH GAS STOVE ETC. IN NYALAM WE WERE ACCOMODATED IN A GUEST HOUSE. THE ROAD TO NYALAM WAS GOOD IN PATCHES, WITH ROAD WORK GOING ON IN MOST PLACES. IN CONTRAST TO NEPAL WHICH WAS ABOUND WITH GREENERY, AFTER A CERTAIN DISTANCE IN TO TIBET, THE COUNTRY SIDE WAS FOUND TO BE DESOLATE BEREFET OF ANY VEGETATION. EVEN GRASS DID NOT GROW MORE THAN FEW INCHES. THE MOUNTAIN RANGE WAS PURE BROWN AND NO VEGETATION TO SPEAK OF.

THE FOOD WAS SIMPLE FOR THE NIGHT, KICHDI, KADI AND SUBJI. COULD NOT SLEEP WELL PROBABLY ON ACCOUNT OF CHANGE IN ALTITUDE. HAD TO GO TO TOILET FREQUENTLY. RESTLESS NIGHT.

18 JULY 2010.

WHOLE DAY IN NYALAM FOR ACCLIMATIZATION. BED TEA, AND AFTER FRESHENING UP WERE GIVEN BREAKFAST. WE WENT FOR A TREK TO A SMALL HILLOCK BEHIND THE GUEST HOUSE, WHICH ALL WERE EXPECTED TO CLIMB. ALL STARTED, BUT MORE THAN HALF RETURNED MID WAY. I WITH SOME OTHERS COMPLETED THE CLIMB. WERE GIVEN SIMPLE LUNCH OF CHAPATI, RICE DAL ETC. EVENING WE HAD SOUP AND DINNER BY 8 PM. WENT TO BED EARLY, SINCE WE WERE TO LEAVE FOR SAGA, OUR NEXT STOP, AROUND 228 KMS. AWAY, EARLY NEXT DAY.

19 JULY 2010

WOKEN UP AT 6 AM WITH BED TEA/COFFEE. FINISHED BREAKFAST AT 7 AM AND LEFT NYALAM 7.30 AM. THE ROAD TO SAGA PASSES THROUGH LALUNGLA PASS, LOCATED AT ABOUT 16000 FT. ABOVE SEA LEVEL, AND THE ROAD WAS GOOD. ATRER THE PASS THERE WAS A DIVERSION TOWARDS SAGA, AND THE ROAD WAS NOT PUCCA, BUT KUTCHA. FOUND THAT THE CHINESE GOVT. IS INTO MASSIVE ROAD BUILDING PROGRAMME IN TIBET TO CONNECT TIBET TO NEPAL BORDER. DRUING SMALL STRETCHES THE ROAD WORK HAS BEEN FINISHED, WE COULD TRAVEL ON GOOD ROAD, OTHER WISE MOST OF OUR TRAVEL WAS BY KUTCHA ROAD ON EITHER SIDE. LUNCH WAS SERVED ON THE WAY AT A PLACE NEAR A RIVULET. ON THE WAY TO SAGA CROSSED HUGU LAKE PAIGU TSO AND BRAHMAPUTRA RIVER

REACHED SAGA AROUND 6 PM. WE WERE PUT UP IN A HOTEL, FOUR PER ROOM. THE TOILETS IN THE ROOM WERE WESTERN STYLE, WITH PROPER BATHROOM FOR HOT WATER. HOWEVER, HOT WATER WAS AVAILABLE AFTER 8 PM. AND HENCE WE HAD A GOOD HOT WATER BATH, OUR LAST BATH TILL DIP IN MANSAROVAR, AND A NICE BATH AGAIN IN KATMANDU ON 28^TH AFTERNOON. AFTER DINNER WERE TOLD THAT WE WILL BE LEAVING FOR PARYANG OUR NEXT HALT BY AROUND 3.30 AM. SINCE THE ROAD WILL BE CLOSED AFTER 6 AM FOR WORK, AND WILL NOT BE ABLE TO TRAVEL FOR AROUND 6 HOURS. WENT TO SLEEP EARLY BUT COULD NOT SLEEP A WINK ON ACCOUNT OF NEED TO GET UP VERY EARLY.

20 July 2010

Left hotel at Saga at 3.30 a.m. The road, if it could be called that, was nonexistent, was full of potholes, ups and downs. The driving skills of the drivers were fully tested. At one point there was a steep incline to be negotiated, and our driver showed his driving skill, and after climb rested the car to watch and guide other vehicles. The convoy of vehicles only after all the vehicles had safely come out. We were served black tea before leaving and nothing else except some bread at 9.30. Our drive to Paryang our next stop was around 235 kms. Our journey continued, and reached Paryang late in the afternoon, and we were then given a simple lunch. We were accommodated 5 to a room. The drive was tough, and all felt tired. The day was warm, and I removed my layers of cloth, and wore lungi, and felt very comfortable. Those who wanted to engage horse for parikrama were asked to shell out 1100 Yuan and 450 Yuan for porter/pittu.

We had a good dinner. Power supply was available for 2-3 hours. The room had one bulb, but there was no switch it put it off. We removed the bulb when we felt sleepy. I had to wear inner wear during the night on account of drop in temperature.

21 July 2010

I had peaceful and undisturbed sleep for once. Today for breakfast we were given Idli ,Vada sambar apart from cornflakes with milk. Left Paryang for Mansarovar around 8.30 pm. Road condition as usual was tough, new road laying work going on throughout the way. Chinese govt. probably intends creating small townships along, and resettle Chinese into Tibet. Tibetans live in abject poverty, and all big business in the hands of Chinese. On the way there were a number of halts, govt. Check points. We drove through Mayumu – la Pass at a height of 17,000 ft. Our driver took us to a good spot on the shores of Mansarovar, and told us that we could have our dip. Most of us had our dip in the holy water, no one ventured much distance in the lake. The water near the shore was not deep; we just threw water over the body and head, got out fast to avoid catching cold. Our next half was at Rakshas tal, where the rakshasas are supposed to come for their dip. We reached our lodging near the lake at around 8.00 pm. As usual there was no proper toilet. Our truck bringing food articles and cooking utensils etc. was held up at check post and could not reach in time. Our sherpas arranged for tea, soup and kichdi from other group kitchen. One of our group members, Shri. Navandar, from Pune, who was unwell earlier itself, had more problems and could not breath even with oxygen being administered. He was, late at night shifted to a hospital, along with his wife, and his friend Mr. Rathi. Thus our group was reduced to 32. The lodging where we were located was made available by India Heritage foundation, and known as Parmarth Kailas Mansarovar Ashram, Found and inspired by Pujya Swami Chidanand Saraswati. The camp is also called Horchu.

22 July 2010

I had a good sleep during the night, got up around 6.30 a.m. The breakfast was sheera, dry fruits, corn flakes, bourn vita. At around 9.30 a.m. some of us left for shores of the lake Mansarovar for performing puja and havan. Some of the members had brought from India, articles needed for havan and puja. One of our members Shri. A.B.Rao performed priestly duties, and did a very competent job. Returned to camp had lunch, chapatti, rice, subji and dal. Left for Darchen, our next halt and base point for Kailash parikrama. Couple of vehicles with its occupants decided to go to see Nandi parvat and also have the first darshan of Kailash mount. We also saw a creature found in Tibet, which some called Tibetan rat, which was nearly the size of a rabbit. We reached our lodging and got good rest. Four to a room, and though there was toilet it was kept locked. Could use the toilet in one of the rooms which was left open, but no water, but luckily it was western toilet. Since there was power supply for more than 2 hours, could charge the batteries for the camera. There was slight drizzle and we prayed for a good dry climate for the ensuing two days, when we will be doing the Parikrama. We heard that one Yatra group consisting of 28 members left for parikrama, of which 21 returned on account of fear of bad weather and rain, and only 7 went ahead.

23 July 2010.

Today is the D day every one was waiting for, the first day of Parikrama. Since I had good sleep, felt fresh, and after freshening up went for breakfast. Skipped since it was chole bhature, not fit for breakfast, had cornflakes, laddoo, and biscuits. Were given packed lunch containing only apple, juice, and some other snack, and a chocolate. Not enough for one. Left the lodging leaving our main bag, and taking only backpack with minimum requirement of eatables and one change of inner wear at around 7.30 a.m. on our way to Tarboche, from where our trek was to start. We had a halt at Yama Dwar, where there is small temple like structure, with no idols. Everyone goes through the opening and exit from the other side, and do pradikshana of the temple. The locals have placed in heap number of stone tablets, with inscriptions. From this point we were driven to Tarboche and our trek of around 12 kms. We commenced our trek from there. Those who had engaged horse got on the back of the horse and started the parikrama. I had decided to walk and amongst our group there were 6 more who also had decided to walk and had not engaged a horse. Two couple, had decided to skip the parikrama, and they stayed back at the camp. The trek was not very difficult, though one felt tired on account of altitude, and low oxygen availability. We reached Diraphuk, 16,500 ft. around 6.00 Chinese time. There was chaos as regards allotment of sleeping quarters, and we were given beds placed on stones, uneven beds, and some spring cots in a very bad condition. We had the best view of Mt. Kailash from this point, since we were located just below the mountain. I was lucky to get good shots... I was sure that on account of bad condition of bed, the sleep will be bad, and I could hardly sleep. The dinner was ok.

24 July 2010

We woke up early, around 6 a.m. to face the second and toughest day of the trek. We had been warned by one and all that it will be very tough and you have to be very careful, and cross Dolma-la pass by 12 pm. to avoid strong winds. It is the highest point on the trek, 18,600 ft. above sea level, with oxygen availability estimated to be 40%. I, with my friend, left the tent by 7.15, and after covering nearly a k.m. remembered that I had left my sunglasses in the tent. I went back, searched for the same and got it and came back and joined my friend, and we continued the climb up the mountain. Reached the highest point, Dolma-la pass by 12 pm, and after a few minutes began our descent. The descent was tough, but since there was no rain, the ground was dry, and mud/pathway also was dry, and hence we could climb down easily. While coming down, we took the easiest possible routes/pathways, and everyone followed the best path possible. There were no mishaps, and all got down safely. However, on account of lack of energy, our speed on plain on the way to Zuthulpuck was slow. We reached the river bank, where tents were puts up, and our group was accommodated in 3 tents. We spent the night in this camp, and had a simple but good night meal. Whole night it drizzled/rained, and there was no moonlight, though poornima was next day. All being tired went to sleep early.

25 July 2010

Last day of the parikrama, and distance to be covered was said to be around 6kms. After breakfast we left camp on our trek. The route was along the river bank, and though mainly plain, there were many ups and downs, had to climb over small hillocks. Our trek took around 3 hours or so, and we reached the point where our cruisers were waiting to take us to Darchen. We reached Darchen around 2 pm, were given lunch and then proceeded for night’s stay beside the lake Mansarovar (horche side), app. 70kms. Drive, and overnight stay Chin Gumpha (Muniji Ashram). The members of the group were expecting to have a nice Guru Poornima night, but on account of rain, could not see the moon in all its glory. Disappointment was writ on all faces of piligrims. Some who had come prepared for Poornima puja, could not perform the same, and were very much disappointed. After simple night meals, all decided to have at least a good night’s sleep, but leakage in tent made that also impossible.

26 July 2010

After the completion of trek and parikrama, all members were anxious to reach Katmandu, and thence their sweet homes. Our morning drive started at around 5.00 a.m. on our way to Dongba. On the way we were given lunch, and we proceeded to Dongba. We neared our destination, but were stopped at a check point just 1 km. or so before the camp. We were told that the vehicles will not be allowed till 9 p.m. and hence most of us decided to walk the distance. However, good sense prevailed and some vehicles were allowed subsequently. The accommodation thankfully was much better. Had kichdi for dinner, and was tasty.

27 July 2010

The drive today was to Nyalam, via Saga, and we were to cover more than 300 kms. We left Dongba at around 6 a.m. Reached Saga around 1 p.m. in the afternoon, were given lunch, which was prepared by sherpas, early in the morning. However, we had not had any breakfast, and hence tried to have our stomach full. Reached Nyalam, in the evening, and for once, we got good rooms, with proper toilet facilities. Went out for a walk, and talked to Deepa and Revathi, Ria was not willing to talk. For the night we were served kichdi, as per our demand with subji. All were intent upon a good sleep, and hoping for a good drive to border place Zhangmum and then Kathmandu.

28 July 2010

Last day of our stay in Tibet, left Nyalam after breakfast by 7 p.m. and reached border customs/immigration check point by 9 a.m. The immigration post opens only at 10.00 a.m. and all have to wait till then for crossing the border. Our group was the first at the gate. We cleared the formalities and crossed over to Nepal side. We went to a restaurant and waited their till our bags etc were received from China. After 11, we were on our way to Katmandu. On the way we halted at a resort, Borderlands for lunch. The resort was located adjacent to a river flowing in its furious glory; the sound of water rushing ahead was pleasing to the ears. The resort was amidst full greenery, and had tents for stay. The charges per person is said to be $40/- per day, which is inclusive of breakfast, tea, and meals. The management also arranges water sports etc. for the guests. The food was simple but good. After lunch, left for Katmandu, and reached hotel Crown Plaza. The road to hotel was in horrible condition, and our progress was slow also on account of road construction work. The traffic was heavy, and jams en route. The hotel was a pleasant home coming, and I got a room for myself without any partner to share with. Had a good bath, and wallowed in the tub of hot water for some time, and felt better for a bath after more than a week. Bought couple of Ganesha masks from a nearby shop for Rs. 1600/- The dinner as usual was good, and lots to select from. Took time to repack the bag, for we had to leave for India tomorrow morning. Off to sleep now, that it is around 11 p.m.

29 July 2010.

Got up by 6.00 p.m. could not go out since it was raining. Had breakfast at 8.00 a.m. Did final packing and got out the bags for being taken to airport. The bus which came was a small one, and could not accommodate all. I travelled in a taxi with two others, and we left the hotel around 9.45 a.m. Our flight was at 11.25 a.m. and we were running late on account of heavy traffic. Mismanagement on the part of Shreshta Holidays in arranging transport in time. We reached the airport around 10.30 a.m. and were inside only after another 10mts. on account of slow checking at the gate. We found that Jet had closed the counter, and after I explained that there were nearly 20 passengers who will be missing the flight they opened the counters, and gave boarding passes. I found that the boarding was also slow, with checks again and again till the point of boarding. At last flight took off, and we landed in Mumbai ahead of schedule. No problem in getting out, but our sumo driver, Ravi, who was to pick us up, had landed at Santacruz airport, instead of Sahar. We had therefore to wait for him. He came and we were on our way, reached home by 4.30 p.m. My tour was over and out.